Omnivorous Greek Revival
David Schneider, owner of the new Wicker Park restaurant Taxim, knows it won’t be easy to change entrenched ideas about what a Greek restaurant should be in this town. “I’ve had people actually get in here and say, ‘You need more blue and white. This place doesn’t feel Greek enough,’” he says. “Likewise, there’s an orthodoxy about how to make a dish.” Best of Chicago voting is live now. Vote for your favorites » But Schneider knows that this fundamental shift in Greek cuisine can’t be hung on just one chef....