First Look Park 52
Best of Chicago voting is live now. Vote for your favorites » Populist Jerry Kleiner‘s long-awaited answer to the void in Hyde Park’s mid-range dining options is admirable—the crowd on my Saturday-night visit to this manifestation of his lurid red-velvet vision of urbanity was integrated to a degree I’m not sure exists anywhere else in town. But while the “classic American” dishes may seem attractive, larded with enough trendy ingredients and nods toward seasonality to set the casual diner’s mind at ease, in execution many of those I tasted were middling: crayfish ragout failed to ignite glazed salmon, overroasted roasted halibut filet fused prosaically with its pureed cauliflower, a Spanish chorizo stuffing emphasized the dryness of a roasted chicken....