Best Harbinger For The Future
“Local” and “sustainable” are such marketing shibboleths these days that they sometimes seem meaningless—one recently opened hotel restaurant goes so far as to include Dean Foods and “Einstein Bros. Bagels, Chicago” among the purveyors proudly listed at the bottom of its menu. So it’s heartening to see genuinely local independents continue to open. In January Cleetus Friedman (now at Fountainhead) reluctantly closed his scrupulously sourced Ravenswood deli, City Provisions. But in the last year or so several restaurants have followed in the farm-directed footsteps of spots like Edzo’s Burger Shop, Pleasant House Bakery, and Hoosier Mama Pie Shop, with notable newcomers including Lakeview’s Indie Burger and City Farms Market & Grill; Bridgeport’s Mr....