Cotes du Rhone Bistro
Best of Chicago voting is live now. Vote for your favorites »
Dinner at Cotes du Rhone, the new Edgewater bistro from former Cafe Bernard chef Brian Moulton, shot out of the gate with a trio of smartly executed classic French starters: piping hot, garlicky escargots; a complex, satiny duck liver pate; and plump mussels in an addictive garlic-white wine broth that should give the mollusks over at the Hopleaf a run for their money. Even the soft, crusty bread was a hit. Given the strong start it was surprising that things flagged at the entrees. The menu includes bistro standards like cassoulet, duck confit, and a nice, juicy roast chicken, but three of my group of four opted for specials. And while the beef tenderloin in green peppercorn sauce was tender, rare perfection, the veal flank smothered in black truffle mushrooms was overcooked (though the mushrooms were pretty tasty) and my rabbit loin stuffed with goat cheese and red peppers was a rich, complicated mess. All were weighed down by plateloads of identical sides: a heap of garlic mashed potatoes, two spears of asparagus, a knot of sauteed greens, another heap of roasted root veggies. No one could complain of going hungry, but the formulaic approach left us a bit disappointed. Cotes du Rhone is undeniably a nice addition to the miscellany of this strip of Broadway. The two candlelit rooms are quiet and almost gothy, the service was friendly if scattered, and it’s BYOB for the time being. But is it perverse to hope for both consistency and variety? –Martha Bayne
OTHER RECENT OPENINGS
Amarit 1 E. Delaware
