- Mike Sula
- Chicharron de queso, El Metro
Did you know there’s a breed of magic pig in Mexico that’s made out of cheese? When you fry the skin you get cheese cracklings or, as they say in Español, “chicharrones de queso.” I’ve never seen such a thing north of the border, but at El Metro, the bright, modern West Town taqueria from the sisters behind Gaudi Cafe, they have one on the menu. Well, they make theirs from Monterey Jack, not pig cheese (just like Rick Bayless). It’s supposed to be lacy and cylindrical, like a dosa, but the one I was served sort of collapsed in on itself. Nevertheless, the portions that had doubled up and fused together had a crumbly Cheez-It texture that contrasted nicely with the more elastic parts. It’s served with guacamole, and a fiery, thick, almost spreadable carrot-habanero salsa. I was advised that another perfectly acceptable mode of ingestion is to crumble it over your taco.
- Mike Sula
- Tacos de alambre de pollo, El Metro
El Metro, 1959 W. Chicago, 312-666-5941
- Mike Sula
- El Metro
