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In this case, “redefining” tacos apparently means filling them with unusual stuff. On some level, that could be an effective strategy in a city that’s bursting with excellent tacos. Making the best taco al pastor in Chicago is no easy task, but Bull Horns might just serve the best meatball taco you’ve ever had.

  • Julia Thiel
  • Bull Horns kung pao taco, et al

But that’s not necessarily saying a lot. And a comically large margarita and comically small appetizer of tamales didn’t bode well: the former was overly sweet and weak, nearly all ice; the latter dried out and, at $7, about a dollar per bite. (We thought we’d dodged a bullet by not ordering the guacamole after we saw a tiny dollop of it, accompanied by a mountain of chips, arrive at another table—no such luck.)