For all the Japanese restaurants that have opened in town over the past few years, it’s still a rare one that isn’t devoted to sushi or to drinking food. Named for a variety of squat, sweet Asian squashes, Kabocha—more Japanese-ish than strictly Japanese—is the second coming of Shin Thompson, who gave up the reins on his celebrated Logan Square prix fixe hole-in-the-wall, Bonsoiree, to open this “brasserie” with an a la carte menu of vaguely Eastern promise. It’s a more accessible restaurant than Bonsoiree, one for diners used to the extracasual shared-plates environments that have come close to dominating our food culture.
Even some flawlessly executed dishes are unmemorable. A sharable shabu shabu course, featuring thinly shaved slices of rib eye meant to be cooked briefly in a simmering hot pot of dashi and mirin, offers a minimal approach that verges on the tedious. You just want to get it over with.
952 W. Lake 312-666-6214kabochachicago.com
