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Next week in Omnivorous, I’ll review Avenues, post Graham Elliot Bowles, now under Curtis Duffy, former chef de cuisine at Alinea, a Trio vet, and (like Chef GEB) Trotter’s alum. Given my space limitations, writing about this one presents an extra challenge, because each course is announced with a long list of elements, in contrast to the standard terse, generalized menu descriptions. Is anyone else tired of that overused menu-design conceit? I’m usually forced to ask servers to repeat these inventories two, sometimes three times, which isn’t fun for anyone. But, oh yeah, I’m working.
Wild Oregon morel risotto: Our fourth course, a swirl of red wine and elephant garlic “froth” around a mound of Acquerello carnaroli rice. It had a nutty, earthy texture, almost like a savory hot cereal, and was a nice demonstration of how foams (our server was careful not to use that word) can go beyond gimmickry and really integrate with a dish.
