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Andy Aroonrasameruang first made a mark with his explosively flavorful cooking at Wrigleyville’s TAC Quick, attracting intrepid non-Thai eaters with authentic dishes like fish maw salad, crispy fish guts tossed with shrimp and cashews in a sweet-hot dressing. Now he’s struck out on his own, opening Andy’s Thai Kitchen in a prime spot beneath the Brown Line stop on Wellington. Mike Sula finds that many TAC favorites have made the trip over: Issan sausage, boat noodles, crispy ong choy (Chinese water spinach). In addition, Aroonrasameruang’s rewarding his more adventurous followers with specialties like raw blue crab salad (yum poo ma), which you’re meant to tackle by sucking the meat from the carapace and breaking the legs with your teeth. The less intrepid need not fear, though—the five-page menu also offers more familiar fare like pad thai and the standard curries.
