Bistro Bordeaux
Pascal Berthoumieux’s picture-perfect French bistro has light mustard walls covered with small framed posters, butcher-paper-topped tables, dark wood bar towards the back, and servers in black vests and long white aprons. The French classics are covered as well. Escargots de bourgogne en croute, plump snails in individual snail-dish compartments crowned by tiny pastry puffs, came in fragrant parsley butter. Robust onion soup with lots of sweet onions bubbled beneath a blanket of tasty melted Emmental. A beautifully poached farm egg with a runny yolk nestled in the salade Lyonnaise. Our only disappointing opener was the terrine de foie gras de canard: the texture of a silken mousse, it wasn’t as full-flavored as it could have been. On the other hand, the blanquette de veau with firm baby root vegetables in creamy veloute was so tender and delicious I only felt a twinge of guilt about ordering veal. Coq au vin, a whole roast chicken for two, and flatiron steak frites also are among the main courses. Sides include classic pommes frites, but we went for brussels sprouts in mild mustard sauce and loved every bite. The cheese cart—with five selections, among them Saint Andre and raw-milk Camembert—wasn’t brought automatically as it would be in France, so ask. You might also want to request the cellar list of great Bordeaux, but in truth the regular list, which showcases small producers and has 16 wines by the glass ($8-$11), is more than adequate. Dark chocolate mousse outclassed soggy tarte tatin for dessert, but next time—and there will be a next time—we’ll try the profiteroles and floating island. —Anne Spiselman
There’s nothing groundbreaking here, but Bistro Campagne remains a reliable choice for classic French fare. The kitchen places a premium on organic ingredients; even the wine list has several bottles from sustainably farmed vineyards. The menu offers bistro standards such as French onion soup and mussels; entrees include steak frites and rotating preparations of lamb and duck. Escargots, delivered spitting hot, are prepared with a garlic-Pernod butter and a liberal dusting of bread crumbs for a sort of “snails casino” effect. Roast chicken, crispy on the outside and juicy within, was served over a bed of rich mushroom ragout and topped with a crazy blossom of fried onion. For dessert there’s a creamy creme brulee, pot au chocolat, house-made ice cream and sorbet, or perhaps a seasonal tart. The cozy, Prairie-inflected dining rooms are comfortable, but outdoor seating is also popular when the weather’s warmer. —Martha Bayne
Best of Chicago voting is live now. Vote for your favorites »
This Old Town restaurant’s four dining rooms and two bars evoke turn-of-the-century Paris, with rich cranberry walls, Tiffany-like sconces, and black-and-white tiled floors. Photos of owner Joe Doppes’s daughter, for whom the place was named, adorn the walls. While the rooms are cozy, they border on claustrophobic; tables are close and servers just squeeze by. But this doesn’t detract from the reasonably priced classic fare. Doppes shows his mastery of French cuisine with classics such as moules marinieres, steak frites, and some savory patés. Even the salade du bistrot is worth a try: Boston lettuce combined with fresh spinach, bacon, and egg, all dressed in a walnut vinaigrette and tossed to perfection. Service is knowledgeable and attentive but too quick; our courses kept overlapping, making for a speedy visit. The brunch menu includes pain perdu, Belgian waffles, and eggs Benedict as well as lunch entrees. —Laura Levy Shatkin
A true taste of Paris in Bucktown: chef Jean-Claude Poilevey turns out French specialties from escargots and frog legs to a heavenly duck for two in a sauce de bigarade (orange and Grand Marnier). The onion soup covered with a generous layer of bubbly melted cheese is always a treat, as is the house paté, and on a cold winter night the cassoulet Toulousain is warm and filling. The wine selection is impressive too. While the small room is always packed and lacks ample waiting space, it continues to draw an eclectic crowd, even on Mondays, when bottles of wine are half off. Parking can be tough; for similar fare in a less crowded space, try Poilevey’s La Sardine in the Randolph Street market district. —Laura Levy Shatkin
Sadly, this Bucktown neighborhood favorite is closing its doors on November 14. I’ll miss its woody decor, pressed-tile ceilings, and chairs right out of your grandfather’s office. Not to mention Charlie Socher’s “cuisine bourgeoisie”—which is to say French, but for the most part without the usual accompanying presumption. The house salad is served simply with a light oil, the liver paté is buttery smooth, and a seafood bourride sings with tarragon. Still, bourgeois or no, it’s all about the sauces, and on this evening (the menu changes daily) rich duck came with a classic pinot noir-green peppercorn number handily sopped up with a Jerusalem artichoke puree. —Ted Cox
