Just like pizza, there’s no such thing as bad sushi. It certainly seems that way anyway, considering the endless proliferation of sashimi, nigiri, and maki in everything from drugstores to gas stations.
Good rice, good fish, and proper service also were in effect at Arami, the Wicker Park sushi bar that Park abruptly left last June, leaving a devoted fan base bereft and frighteneded, wondering where the best sushi south of Peterson Avenue could now be found.
The kitchen, fronted by former Leopold chef Jeffrey Hedin, is responsible for a selection of hot and cold appetizers and a few higher-ticket entrees based on premium proteins (king crab, lobster, Wagyu). A delicately spicy bowl of clams, mussels, pork sausage, bok choy, and potato takes its cue from Logan Square’s Portuguese-Chinese mashup Fat Rice, while more artfully constructed and well-balanced plates include a delicately seared miso-rubbed halibut fillet with a pureed sunchoke understory brightened by kumquat slivers and mustard spinach, or grilled baby octopus tentacles tangled among artichoke hearts, preserved lemon, and bright green edamame.
2638 N. Lincoln 872-206-8662junosushi.com
