The Chef: Charles Joly (The Drawing Room)The Challenger: Craig Schoettler (The Aviary)The Ingredient: Ambergris
Video by Michael Gebert/Sky Full of Bacon
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When fresh, ambergris has the fecal scent that Joly refers to—but after months or years of floating in the ocean, exposed to the sun, it hardens and develops a smell that’s usually described as sweet and earthy. It’s traditionally used in perfume, and at various points in history has been believed to ward off the plague and cure almost any ailment imaginable.
Because it’s rare, highly regulated, and thus extremely expensive (it’s almost as valuable as gold), Joly was only able to get ambergris extract, which wasn’t food-grade. Opting not to endanger his health or anyone else’s, he decided to use its aroma to enhance the taste of the cocktail he made rather than actually putting it in the drink. Joly suspended the extract in mineral oil and beeswax, then placed it over a flame. “Then I just kind of sat with the aromas for a while and thought about what spirits and what flavors would go well in a cocktail,” he said.
1½ oz Pierre Ferrand 1840 cognac 1 oz Kronan Swedish Punsch 3 oz brewed Regal Earl Grey tea ½ oz honey syrup Ambergris aroma* Garnish: nutmeg and lemon oil with twist
