The Chef: Duncan Biddulph (Rootstock)The Challenger: Rodney Staton (the Ogden)The Ingredient: Cod milt
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Cod milt is most common in Japanese cuisine, where it’s steamed, fried, or occasionally served raw with ponzu or another sauce. It’s in season during the winter, so anyone who wants to try it now is in luck. Biddulph got some fresh from his fish purveyor, but he also bought a large frozen block of it from an Asian market in Chicago. Asked how many cod were required to make the two-and-a-half-pound brick, he said, “I don’t know. Cod are pretty big fish, and—I don’t know their prowess as lovers. I don’t know how virile they are.”
He recommends buying the milt fresh rather than frozen, though. “When it comes in fresh, at least you can identify it as having had been part of an animal as opposed to maybe something that you would build a little shack out of.”
Biddulph also fried a few small pieces of poached cod milt to top off the custard. Tasting it, he said, “Wow, that is really good”—but he also made a face. He explained why: “It was crunching through the cod milt, kind of feeling it press against my tongue, and then instantly popping one of the salmon eggs against the roof of my mouth to make those mix together—that was a little fish overload. But once you start crunching on the celery leaves and the shiitake and all of that—I don’t know. It’s got a really round flavor. Deep and bright.”
Video by Michael Gebert/Sky Full of Bacon
Cod milt chawanmushi (savory egg custard)
3 eggs 2 cups dashi or light chicken stock Cod milt Pickled shiitake mushrooms Salmon roe Celery leaf Ponzu vinaigrette Salt
