The Chef: Erling Wu-Bower (The Publican)The Challenger: John Anderes (Telegraph Wine Bar)The Ingredient: Gold leaf
Though he’s not really criticizing—”making food look good is very important”—Wu-Bower still isn’t sold on gold, at least not for the Publican. “I think you should garnish with what you have in front of you, what’s in season, what’s local, what’s edible—not metallic.” Le Bernardin, on the other hand? “Eric Ripert is the chef that I respect most on earth, so he can use gold leaf whenever he wants to.”
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Wu-Bower also added gold leaf to the aioli, which he plated with the fried, gilded fish along with crudites: purple cauliflower, turnips, radishes, celery, and roasted beets, drizzled with a little olive oil and lemon juice. To finish the dish, he scattered a few more bits of gold leaf on top. “It’s the most expensive fish fry you’ve ever seen,” he said. “I think it looks pretty cool.
Video by Michael Gebert/Sky Full of Bacon
Gilded smelt fry with crudités and Goldschlager-harissa aioli
Serves 4
Harissa aioli
Now brine the smelt. Mix a half liter of cold water and 20 grams of salt together until the salt dissolves completely. Put the smelt into the brine and place them in the refrigerator for one hour, then remove and place on a dry paper towel.
