There are three street corners, each less than half a mile apart, bounding an otherwise quiet north-side neighborhood and forming an invisible triangle that attracts individuals with extraordinary powers of deferred gratification. The points on this Avondale Triangle are occupied by Hot Doug’s, Kuma’s Corner, and, most recently, Honey Butter Fried Chicken. All are purveyors of cheffy, embellished fast food with devoted supporters who are willing to line up and wait for sustenance that the cooks prepare in a fraction of the time it takes for a customer to secure a seat.
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On other planets people wait in line for Olive Garden, so such waits are no indication of a singular experience. Hot Doug’s, which excels at sausage, and Kuma’s, which is good at making burgers and scandalizing Catholics, have had years to grow their respective cults. But partnering chefs Joshua Kulp and Christine Cikowski of Honey Butter had lines out the door on day one, thanks in part to a sticky, sweaty honeymoon with food-media first responders, but also from goodwill banked during years of fronting the popular underground Sunday Dinner Club. Nonpartisan eaters, however, should be wondering if it’s really worth the wait.
The legs are unmolested, but on each of my visits I was dealt an unbalanced proportion: six breasts, a single thigh, and a single leg in each eight-piece order. Luck of the draw, I suppose—or do those Amish farmers have a sinister breeding program we don’t know about?
Once ordered, food is served fast, and in good weather there’s plenty of seating on the back patio. You will order at the counter, however, which forces the inane dilemma of tipping on services not yet provided. The servers themselves are friendly and expedient and worth the benefit of the doubt, but they could stand a bit more thorough drilling on the boneless issue. I’m sure it’s a question they get a lot, though none I asked had consistent or satisfying answers (a culinary school extern dispatched to my table explained the absence of skin on some pieces by saying it completely dissolved in the frying process).
3361 N. Elston 773-478-4000honeybutter.com
