Eivissa
FDM Mexican Cuisine & Lounge
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The primary differences between FDM and its folksier Logan Square sister, Fonda del Mar, are mostly cosmetic: this sleek North Center upscale-Mexican restaurant is all blond wood and curving white lines. There’s a varied list of margaritas and cocktails, but menuwise, despite claims to contrary, there are only a few items that deviate from the mothership’s. Execution of most—from an oversalted cucumber-jicama salad to an overcooked monkfish escabeche wobbly atop bland mashed potatoes and swimming in its vinegary sauce—doesn’t bode well for FDM’s chances. —Mike Sula
1132 N. Milwaukee | 773-772-2722
$ Caribbean | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11
I’m a fan of the trend that has bona fide chefs behind quick-service places, so I applaud Kurt Chenier, formerly of Bonsoiree, for opening this excellent Loop lunch stand. The design and decor—a kind of futuristic retro—are a little kitschy, but who cares when you’re devouring sandwiches generously stuffed with smoky beef brisket, Moroccan lamb with couscous and golden raisins, or shrimp jambalaya with chicken andouille? Sides are appealing as well, from mac ‘n’ cheese (just decent) to grilled vegetables to salads to banana pudding. The chef dreams up soups of the day—vegan curried lentil or chilled coconut-cucumber, for example—and Friday’s chef’s choice sandwich special, ginger beef with bok choy on one visit. Speaking of specials, there’s one daily, and a beverage and sandwich for $5 is one sweet deal. The staff is good-humored and inclined to offer samples, and all the packaging’s environmentally friendly. —Kate Schmidt
Los Moles
