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Bill Buford serves up another Big Gulp of a bio (9,000+ words) in this week’s issue of the New Yorker, a seriously juicy, all-access-pass profile of chef Gordon Ramsay. Buford tells readers what was going on behind the scenes after Ramsay’s New York restaurant opened, during the long “silence” up until the Bruni review in the New York Times, and after. (There’s also a major revelation in the middle about Ramsay’s longtime feud with former mentor Marco Pierre White, a story that broke in England earlier this week based on Buford’s interview–no links here to preserve the surprise.) I like that Buford takes on the nature of Ramsay’s cooking, and the way in which critics are unable to reconcile his fomenting crazed yelling in the kitchen with his seemingly mild food. There is a lot of fomenting crazed yelling in the story.
