Last year around this time I did what most scribblers do when they want to knock off early and settle down for a long winter’s nap. I picked out some of my favorite new—or new to me—restaurants of the past 12 months and packed them into a column.
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Mulefoot headcheese ravioli with whole-grain mustard pasta, cavolo nero, and pork consomme with lemon oil at the Whole Hog Dinner The Reader‘s Whole Hog Project mulefoot dinner was a meal for the ages—six incredibly delicious courses made from some very special pigs. I’ve heard a few people complain that the ravioli by Avec sous chef Justin Large were too salty, but I’ve heard from far more that this was their favorite course. Mine too—I wanted to miniaturize myself and lay my head on these two crispy pillows of citrus-and-baking-spice-scented unctuousness.
Chicken and dumplings at Turner’s Family Soul Food Murilee Johnson, the “big boss lady” at this Auburn-Gresham soul kitchen, has an arsenal of hearty granny food in her repertoire, but this toothy, thick stew is the very manifestation of love on a plate.
Shortbread at Mado Eating Allison Leavitt’s fragile, buttery biscuits is like being seduced by a ghost. I know I’m not alone on this one—these seemed to have won approval from every critic in the city.
Guy Vanek’s Czech dumplings at Stanley’s Tavern
Soon dubu chigae at Chodang Tofu Village
Hot link at Cole’s Choice Barbecue
