Journalists are like rats, not only because we like to eat but also because powerful forces are trying to eradicate us. Ratatouille, an animated film about a cheffy rat and probably the most meaningful movie of all time for food nerds, resonated especially for me because the Reader, my home for more than a decade, underwent waves of heartbreaking downsizing this year. Sure, I identified with the movie’s food critic, Anton Ego—in fact, I dressed as him for Halloween—but I felt more for Remy the rodent, who was under constant threat yet comforted and sustained by his passion for cooking. For my part, I’m grateful for the opportunity to take solace in eating well and writing about it. And I’m encouraged that 2008 is the Year of the Rat. Here, in no particular order, are some people, places, and dishes that made me feel better during the long Year of the Pig. You can read about all of them at greater length online by clicking the links in this piece at chicagoreader.com.
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Some people thought I’d lost my bearings when I tried to convince them that Toby Maloney’s neo-speakeasy wasn’t just a set piece for Wicker Park hipsters to dump their money into. But this year in that bar I’ve learned more about how to taste and drink like an adult than in all my years above legal age. Try the Dark & Stormy—you’ll see. a1520 N. Damen, 773-252-1500
Ben Li’s hole-in-the-wall Szechuan restaurant continues to swipe market share from Lao Sze Chuan with aggressively authentic dishes like fish in chile broth and silky pocket tofu, and a few innovative ones like butter-sweet crunchy black pepper-garlic steak. a 228 W. Cermak, 312-842-7818
NAZARLIK
The Chicago area’s only restaurant specializing in the bright flavors of the Yucatan Peninsula always rejiggers my assumptions about Mexican food. It may be that the unbelievably friendly Contreras family has a bit of Like Water for Chocolate mojo working for them—you can taste the love. a5135 W. 25th, Cicero, 708-652-8680
KIM’S KOREAN RESTAURANT
Caption TK