What makes for a destination restaurant? I kept turning this question over in my mind during a good but not great three-hour meal at Sable, the bar and restaurant in the Kimpton Group’s new Hotel Palomar in River North. Chef Heather Terhune has headed two other Kimpton kitchens: she ran the Atwood Cafe, in the Hotel Burnham, for ten years, and before that 312 Chicago, at the Allegro, and if I were a guest at the Palomar I’d be thrilled to find the chic but cozy Sable lurking just off the lobby.
Best of Chicago voting is live now. Vote for your favorites »
But simple misfires kept the food from really flying. Fried artichokes tasted suspiciously like they’d shared oil with the smelt, thick slices of duck prosciutto were too big a challenge, and some flash-pickled vegetables were overpowered by sweet vinegar. Most disappointing, the cherry clafouti was dry and doughy, almost a quickbread rather than the flanlike ideal. On the other hand, the drinks—which a sunny, professional server made sure to keep coming—were tremendous. Overseen by Violet Hour vet Mike Ryan, the cocktail program gives classic cocktails a workout with concoctions like the War of the Roses, a perfect balance of Pimm’s, St-Germain, Tanqueray, mint, and house-made grapefruit bitters. The Pisco Sour was possibly the best I’ve ever tried, just sweet enough and bracingly strong, topped with a stiff cap of egg white. Even the Bridal Shower proved to be a stiff, refreshing cooler of Campari, vodka, rhubarb syrup, and plenty of fizz. The cocktails could be what make Sable a destination. —Martha Bayne
The slabs, dry aged or not, are fat and competently fired, and come with a cute little Yorkshire pudding that entertainingly bleeds red wine reduction all over the plate when prodded. But nothing blasphemous will challenge the average wayfarer—or amuse seasoned locals, notwithstanding some imaginative but ultimately off-kilter cocktails like the disastrous Aviation, made with sweet Old Tom Gin and Lillet.
There are three pork belly preparations, and kakuni katsu, panko-breaded and deep-fried morsels of it, practically melted in my mouth. It was worlds apart from the dry, gristly, soggy pork katsu on the katsu don, mushy rice, onion, shiitakes, and beaten egg with dashi soy sauce. Next time I’ll try one of the other five donburi or the sole noodle bowl, tempura udon, though the braised pork belly and salt-grilled mackerel beckon more. —Anne Spiselman
505 N. State, 312-755-9704, sablerestaurant.com
Benny’s Chop House 444 N. Wabash, 312-626-2444, bennyschophouse.com
Masu Izakaya 1969 N. Halsted, 773-435-9314
Aldino’s 626 S. Racine, 312-226-9300, aldinoschicago.com
