Table, Donkey and Stick is the restaurant reborn from the much-admired Bonsoiree after Shin Thompson—in order to ready a forthcoming West Loop Asian spot—handed the reins over to Top Cheftestant Beverly Kim for a short, pricey, ill-fated experiment in prix fixe Korean.
The preserved meats in that first category—dubbed wanderteller (“hiker’s plate”)—are excellent and among the most beautifully arranged in town: a lineup that includes folds of bloodred smoked venison tenderloin with cherry mostarda, iron-rich coins of firm blood sausage, and thin sheets of concentrically stuffed pheasant galantine seasoned with coffee and fennel. A generous bread service—a buckwheat baguette and a crock of finely emulsified pork rillettes—augments this, and goes swimmingly with the small selection of European cheeses served alongside a shallow dish of honey, with slices of sunflower-oat bread.
Or, to quote the duplicitous goat from the Grimms’ tale:
2728 W. Armitage 773-486-8525tabledonkeystick.com
