We’re good with pizza in Chicago, but overdue for a bagel renaissance. For far too long we’ve put up with horrible facsimiles of the boiled-and-baked (or steam-injected) New York style from chains that phone it in on an industrial scale and from venerable suburban independents that have seen better days.
If Reno, led by Telegraph chef Johnny Anderes, were churning out nothing but these bagels it would still be an opening of major importance. I could go on about them (engage Wyer in a discussion about her six-month research-and-development phase and you’ll see what I mean). But by virtue of variety, economy, and overall excellence, Reno will prove to be many things to many people.
This amount of variety and ambition can sometimes be overwhelming. At dinner eaters ordering across the menu may find things arriving too fast or all at once. And the fact that Reno accepts only cash, which is dispensed by an ATM that hits you with a $2 service charge, sticks in the craw. But nothing on any of the menus comes in over $14, and whatever resentment arises from the inconvenience is quickly dispelled by the comradely front-of-the-house staff that helps make Reno a welcoming place to hole up during a workday (if you’re so lucky) with a laptop, a cup of Stumptown coffee, and a sandwich. Or one or four of those miraculous bagels. No matter what time of day, it’s a place where fast and inexpensive doesn’t mean sloppy and cheap.
2607 N. Milwaukee 773-697-4234renochicago.com
