In the Neighborhood
Adesso is a return to his Italian roots for owner Franco Gianni, who’s also behind Tank Sushi and Sushi Wabi. The southern Italian cooking in this 32-seat space is meant to be unfussy and accessible, in an atmosphere of festive neighborliness (no kidding—parties are seated together at communal tables). Simple ingredients stood out in a bruschetta of thick rustic bread, ricotta, and slightly roasted tomatoes topped with honey—the ricotta was the type of fresh that makes you wonder if you’ve ever truly tasted a food before. Other starters include the requisite calamari fritti, an antipasto plate, and a generous bowl of meaty mussels in a white wine and herb broth with nicely browned toast, Sicilian style. Zuppe di cipolle e sidro, onion-and-cider soup with a provolone crust, was salty-sweet without being too much of either. But the knockout dish was carbonata di costine di manzo, slow-braised beef short ribs over shallot-studded polenta—we passed the plate back and forth till it shone clean. —Tasneem Paghdiwala
$$Asian, Korean | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Reservations not accepted | BYO
Coobah3423 N. Southport | 773-528-2220
Turkish specialties stand out now that Yasar Demir, of the late Cafe Demir, is the chef/owner of this spacious, eclectically decorated restaurant furnished with cushioned platforms and low hammered-brass tables, as well as regular seating including a sidewalk cafe. Start with patlican salata, garlicky eggplant spread, or ezme, a spicy blend of seared bell and banana peppers with red pepper paste and chopped walnuts. One big plus: the pide, a house-made Turkish bread, is the best in town, at least when it’s fresh. Of the hot appetizers, mujver (zucchini pancakes) here are more like fritters and feature grated carrots too. Arnavut cigeri, Albanian-style panfried liver and potatoes, is a tasty nonvegetarian opener. All the usual kebabs are on hand, but Demir’s long suit is yogurt adana, tubes of piquant minced lamb, grilled and served over cubes of pide, smothered with garlic-yogurt sauce, and accompanied by a spicy green pepper and roasted peeled tomato. Garlic yogurt, tomato sauce, and melted butter adorn manti, half moons of pasta stuffed with mushrooms and onions. They’re as large as ravioli rather than tiny like authentic manti but a nice vegetarian variation nonetheless. If the panfried trout is on hand—not the case on my recent visits—order it. Also top-notch and great for sharing: pideler, boat-shaped thick-crust pizzas with a choice of fillings ranging from Turkish sausage with mozzarella to mixed vegetables. There are limited desserts, tea in little tulip glasses, Turkish coffee, and Turkish beer and wine. One caveat: service can be pokey. —Anne Spiselman
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$Mexican/Southwestern | Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night Till midnight
