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$$ Italian, Pizza | Dinner: seven days | Open late: Friday & Saturday till midnight, other nights till 11 | BYO
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Owned by brother and sister Boubacar and Diaw Sow, this tiny restaurant is all about the cuisine of Senegal, where Diaw learned to cook from her mother and aunts. Food here is mostly zabiha halal (with the exception of a recently introduced menu of Jamaican food). Ceebu jen is delicately stewed red snapper on tomato rice; sup kanja is described as an “okra sauce” but it’s more complex than that sounds, with chunks of lamb, dried fish, and smoked turkey. Senegal is known as the peanut capital of the world, and the legume is prominent in mafe yapp, traditional peanut butter stew, and dakhine, lamb and beans in a peanut sauce. Served as dessert (though probably also an excellent breakfast), thiakhri is simply yogurt and couscous with raisins, and cools the palate after hot sauces that are served with meat pasties. Diaw makes her own sugary sorrel and flu-season-appropriate ginger beverages, and starting in two weeks she’ll be serving omelets and baguettes on a Frenchified breakfast menu. —David Hammond
The Counter666 W. Diversey | 773-935-1995
On a recent visit to this contemporary American local/sustainable spot, at least half the food was on track. One of the specialty maki, Ocean’s Bounty, with lobster, salmon, shrimp, avocado, and tempura crunch, was an enjoyable nibble alongside a lychee fizz, a refreshing mix of Ketel One citron, sparkling wine, lychee, and lime. Duck confit spring rolls arrived hot and crispy with a colorful garnish of curry aioli and spiced edamame. But the short rib ravioli, though the pasta was reasonably delicate, was ruined by a bland, grainy filling and dull tarragon broth. Wild mushroom-barley salad turned out to be the highlight of my meal, the nutty grain set off by sauteed mushrooms, slightly melted Brie, celery root, and a subtle sherry-bacon vinaigrette. Mushy cranberry stuffing marred the Indiana pork chop, which was glazed with sweet apple chutney and accompanied by nicely roasted fingerling potatoes and sauteed rapini. Door County cherry pain perdu, custardy brioche bread pudding with tart cherries and hazelnut ice cream, and a rich chocolate tart paired with chocolate ice cream and espresso sauce ended the evening on a positive note. —Anne Spiselman
$$Italian | Dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday | Closed Monday | Open late: Saturday till 1; Sunday, Tuesday-Friday till midnight
Sortie Lounge1212 N. State | 312-440-5100
