There was once a Bermuda triangle of cocktail destinations in Logan Square. One of the triangle’s three points was occupied by Lula, that elegant old-timer—at least by Logan standards—who tolerates crowds but never rowdiness (she retires early). Charting a course north-northwest you’d encounter the second point, the rough-hewn Longman & Eagle—a place that not only encourages rowdiness but will offer you a place to crash upstairs. And to the southeast of the two there laid in wait that siren of craft cocktail bars, the Whistler: pared down, a little esoteric, also packed. Travel too frequently between the three and you might find yourself in a expertly stirred vortex from which escape is tricky. (And at the end of that black hole is the Owl. But that’s another story.)
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Now, however, it’s more accurate to say that the neighborhood is home not to a triangle of cocktail destinations but a square. And while those three aforementioned places run the gamut from feminine sophistication (Lula) to masculine heartiness (Longman) to minimalist restraint (the Whistler), Scofflaw stands apart, too: as a rebellious mix of the baroque and the affordable. And unlike the others, which offer either coursed menus (Longman, Lula) or no menu at all (the Whistler), Scofflaw fills a local void with creative, underpriced bar food.
A generous portion of pork belly almost veered off course with a sauce just shy of Chinese-takeout cloying. But the pork’s tender perfection—and the pleasantly acidic cucumber salad accompanying it—righted the dish.
3201 W. Armitage scofflawchicago.com
