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The story also says something about Chicago and, perhaps, its bumbled rush to be seen as sophisticated and worthy. “Chicago prides itself on being a city with more daring restaurants than Manhattan,” [Max writes]. “The city also has Moto, an Asian-inflected outpost of molecular gastronomy–and the home-town response was unequivocal. The Tribune exalted the very dishes that the Times suggested were contrived or showy, declaring the P. B. & J. opener ‘comfort food fit for the Museum of Contemporary Art.’” Which suggests the locals didn’t have the guts to say the whole thing is ridiculous for fear of coming off like hayseeds. But whatever. (To be fair, Gourmet did name Alinea the best restaurant in America in 1997.)
(Also, uh, Steve, Alinea wasn’t open in 1997, as the NY’er makes clear. The Gourmet accolade came in 2006.)
