Nightwood, the new Pilsen venture from the Lula talent trust of Jason Hammel, Amalea Tshilds, and chef Jason Vincent, in tandem with designer Kevin Heisner and Matt Eisler (Bar DeVille, etc), has had the loyal Lulaphile base licking its lips for months. When Hammel finally posted news of its opening on May 26, it practically took over my Facebook feed. This place could serve stale Cheetos and still have ’em lined up down Halsted. So it’s a testament to the team’s creative vision that Nightwood is a lot more than just Lula south.

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The simple yet sophisticated food mirrors the elegant surroundings. I went with a party of five, so we managed to eat our way through half of that night’s handwritten list. Some standouts included delicate grilled Wisconsin trout; half a juicy roast chicken complemented by peppery mustard greens; devastating pork belly; and a duck potpie whose rich flavors were teased out with a restrained, confident hand. Appetizers included a nicely balanced arugula and steak salad starring some flavorful roasted beets and a terrific duo of silken, miso-cured pork tenderloin and savory shank.

As the name suggests, this is a late-night spot; dinner’s served till 11 and the bar’s open till 2. The latter features a roster of creative house cocktails and craft beers, though Pabst Blue Ribbon (“Wisconsin, lager”) also makes the cut. The extensive wine list is weighted toward sustainable and/or biodynamic small producers and, like the menu and the restaurant design, demonstrates an abundance of taste, consideration, and savvy planning. The upshot? Go—and take your friends so you can eat off their plates. —Martha Bayne

Fianco is one of those low-key neighborhood Italian joints that often fly under the foodie radar. With its photo-lined exposed-brick walls, butcher-paper-covered tables, and high exposed-beam ceiling, the spacious storefront feels like a throwback. The modestly priced one-page menu hinted at a hip aesthetic with atypical ingredients like saba (a sweet grape-must syrup), but little suggested chef Matt Troost’s considerable talent.

2119 S. Halsted 773-526-3385nightwoodrestaurant.com

Browntrout

4111 N. Lincoln 773-472-4111browntroutchicago.com

Fianco

3440 N. Southport773-327-6400