There’s a reason you’ve never had a shrimp meatball.

On paper, the bar’s selection of craft cocktails is limited but attractive. In practice, it’s a pretty one-note menu—and that note is sweet. The Scarlet Harlot, J. Rocco’s take on an old-fashioned, is made with bourbon (sweet), blood orange (also pretty sweet), and Meletti Amaro (cinnamony sweet, like a wad of Big Red gum). It was the color of fruit punch when it arrived at the table, which was a bad sign. I’m not sure why I thought the Agrodolce, made with rye and strawberry-rhubarb grenadine, would be any better, but I abandoned that thought when the drink arrived in a cocktail glass rimmed with sugar. The exception to the sweet rule was the Parasole, a take on a mojito with muddled watermelon and basil. Hard as hell to suck through a straw, but also hard not to drink.

749 N. Clark 312-475-0271jroccoitalian.com