The first question that pops into anyone’s head when confronted with Takito Kitchen should be “Does Wicker Park need more gringo tacos?” Sure, Big Star‘s patio overflows anytime the mercury rises above 60, but isn’t that what Antique Taco is supposed to take care of? OK, Antique Taco has a Mexican in charge of taco construction, but its atmosphere is as white as a cracker factory.
Dworshak offers as precursors to the tacos a selection of seven shareable plates, and in some cases they steal the show from the main event. There’s an outstanding Yucatan-style chile soup, made murky with a green spice blend and thickened with meaty shredded chicken. There’s a supersmooth guacamole tarted up with pickled garlic. And there’s a bowl of rich, fatty polenta sprinkled with pickled chiles, bacon, and dehydrated corn that lends a much-needed crunch to the otherwise gruel-like bowl. It’s also a lesson in how to use local produce out of season (I’m talking to you, Howells & Hood).
With all this, Takito Kitchen has managed to raise the stakes for nuevo taquerias in a neighborhood that’s beginning to crowd with them. But while Dworshak has succeeded in taking the taco a little bit further than it’s gone before, the rest of his food should attract eaters from across the city.
2013 W. Division 773-687-9620takitokitchen.com
