Location: 401 N. Franklin, thedoughnutvault.tumblr.com

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Abstract: Seniority has its privileges. Last Wednesday food writer Mike Sula had a late night at Next (see review) and the Aviary, and the following morning while he was sleeping it off, Reader intern Asher Klein had his back. At 8:25 Klein was waiting in the second-longest line in town, at the Doughnut Vault, the cash-only takeaway hole-in-the-wall from Brendan Sodikoff (Gilt Bar, Maude’s Liquor Bar), where the queue stretches around the corner and the $2 to $3 hand-formed dunkers typically sell out before noon. Klein successfully secured a dozen, making it possible for the day’s work to be done, and we thought it would be instructive to evaluate the fried dough from two perspectives: that of the patient unpaid intern who stood in line (with an upset stomach to boot), and that of the hungover food critic who rolled into the office at noon in his bathrobe.