Editor’s note: Chef Jeffrey Hedin left in the fall of 2012.
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But while chef Jeffrey Hedin’s concise menu does throw a few curveballs, it also includes primary touchstones of that country’s cuisine: mussels, fries, rabbit (three dishes!), varied applications of mustard, and of course brussels sprouts.
Of the two preparations of moules frites—one simmered with leeks and cured pork cheek in spicy California-brewed Devotion Ale and the other in a creamy white wine curry—I prefer the latter for its perfumed subtlety, which puts the focus on the plump, fresh mussels. And the early reports I’d heard that the accompanying spuds were too limp proved unfounded on the three occasions I tried them—fried near perfect, durably crispy and salty even when conscripted in poutine, glopped by gooey curds and merguez gravy.
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