The overwhelming menu at Mark Bires and Mindy Friedler’s old West Loop sandwich shop Jerry’s has been preserved at their newer, larger Wicker Park location—which is to say it still reads like the obsessively detailed manifesto of a schizophrenic scribbling on an envelope. But that’s probably cold comfort to regulars back in the lunch-light West Loop, who may view the comparatively limited selection of po’boys at Bires and Friedler’s new Mac and Min’s with despair.
Carpaccio benefited from a novel garnish of potato salad coated with basil pesto. Chewy baby octopus tossed with roasted red peppers, capers, and arugula had plenty of grilled flavor. And if everything were as good as the warm lentils, complemented by baby spinach, piquant black olives, tangy goat cheese, and a sun-dried tomato vinaigrette, I’d be back regularly. I wouldn’t come for the pizza, though—our margherita with acidic plum-tomato sauce, bland house-made mozzarella, and basil didn’t compare to the city’s best, even if it was only $8.
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We didn’t have much room for dessert, but no matter: espresso creme brulee looked unappealing and tasted like chocolate pudding, and an intriguing olive oil cake was marred by underripe slices of grilled peach. The small Italian wine list is affordable but may disappoint serious oenophiles. Considerate service was unevenly paced. —Anne Spiselman
Southern Pride
CAJUN, BARBECUE/RIBS, BAKERY | 8 AM-9 PM MONDAY-SATURDAY, 8 AM-7 PM SUNDAY | SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH
CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, SOUTHERN/SOUL FOOD | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH
CAJUN, BAR/LOUNGE | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | BRUNCH friday-sunday | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED
1045 W. Madison, 312-563-1008,macandmins.com
Mia Figlia 5304 W. Devon, 773-792-8300,miafigliarestaurant.com
Stax Cafe 1401 W. Taylor, 312-733-9871
