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For this week’s issue I filed an ambivalent review about Bread & Wine, a new wine bar in the underserved Old Irving Park neighborhood. Last week I griped about Tavernita. I’m pretty unimpressed with the next new restaurant I’ll be reviewing too. Oh, boo hoo, right? But at times like these I’m grateful to be reminded I’m not working in Grand Forks, North Dakota:

She first brought me the familiar Olive Garden salad bowl with crisp greens, peppers, onion rings and yes— several black olives. Along with it came a plate with two long, warm breadsticks.

The chicken Alfredo ($10.95) was warm and comforting on a cold day. The portion was generous. My server was ready with Parmesan cheese.

As I ate, I noticed the vases and planters with permanent flower displays on the ledges. There are several dining areas with arched doorways. And there is a fireplace that adds warmth to the decor.