The boutique wine stores that have proliferated in Chicago over the past half dozen years don’t offer the kind of selection as, say, Binny’s. But their owners and managers have personally tasted every wine they stock. When we checked in with some of them about the latest in summer wines, we learned that these retailers are experiencing “downward pressure” on prices from customers, which they think has made people more open to trying new varietals, especially whites and rosés.
Los Frailes Monastrell 2007 ($12): A medium-bodied, classically dry, organic red from Valencia that’s less fruity than typical Spanish reds, making it more thirst quenching in hot weather. Hearty enough to stand up to grilled meats, like a pork chop with a dry rub, but not so heavy that you can’t drink it on its own.
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You can test that pairing at the store’s annual Ribs and Rosé barbecue, Sunday, July 18, noon-4 PM. It’s free.
Arcane Cellars Rosé of Pinot Gris 2009 ($15): Also from the Willamette Valley and made from a grape usually used for whites, this dry rosé has hints of wild strawberry and is very versatile with food. Grilled salmon steaks are a good match.
Big Woop 2008 ($14.99 liter): Full-flavored blend from Australia that brings together the body of chardonnay, floral and tropical fruit tones of viognier, and the acidity of pinot gris. “Fun-loving” white that can stand up to barbecued chicken and burgers. “People approach blends with less hesitation because they’re not hung up by expectations for a particular grape, and winemakers approach blends like chefs would a dish,” says Don.
John and Erica WitteOwners, The Poison Cup1128 W. Armitage, 773-935-1325poisoncup.comOpened in April 2009; doubles as an art gallery. Stocks 100-115 wines, many from “passionate wine artisans.”
Lambert “Cuvée Mathilde” Rosé 2008 ($16): This cabernet franc rosé from a biodynamic vineyard in the Loire Valley is well-balanced and earthy, with savory herbal tones, brininess, structure, mouth spritz, and acidity that stand up beautifully to charcuterie and cheeses.
