Flanking the island of Hispaniola to the northwest and east, Puerto Rico and Cuba traditionally have been referred to as las alas de la paloma, or “the wings of the dove.” They share more than a neighbor–plantains, rice and beans, salt cod, and other Caribbean foodstuffs are common in both cuisines–but each country offers its own take on these ingredients.
At Latin Sandwich Cafe (4009 N. Elston, 773-478-0175) you can get your rice and peas alongside a Chicago original, the jibarito, a sandwich with two planks of fried plantain in place of bread. Juan Figueroa, owner of Borinquen (1720 N. California, 773-227-6038), takes credit for the creation of this dish: inspired by a newspaper recipe for a sandwich of meat stuffed between plantains, the story goes, he added lettuce, tomato, cheese, mayo, and plenty of garlic to produce the artery clogger that’s now the basis of a mini empire. (Borinquen has additional locations at 3020 N. Central, 773-622-8570, and 3811 N. Western, 773-442-8001.) The jibarito (which translates as “little hillbilly”) is available in beef, ham, chicken, and veggie versions as well as one with delectable lechon, roast suckling pig.
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Probably the best-known drink from the island is the Cuba Libre–a rum and Coke with lime–though these days the mojito (rum, lime, sugar syrup, mint, and soda) gives it a run for its money. Rum is of course also popular in Puerto Rico, the world’s largest rum producer–another example of tastes that span the wings of the dove. –David Hammond
