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Mike Sula reviews GT Fish & Oyster, the River North restaurant from the Boka group that highlights the cooking of Giuseppe Tentori (who remains executive chef at Boka as well), from the simple and classic—a lobster roll, clam chowder, crab cakes—to the distinctive and challenging—taro chips served with haddock dip, chorizo-stuffed squid on a bed of saffron rice, a primordial-looking dish of squid-ink gnocchi and fiddlehead. He’s ably assisted by a crack team that includes pastry chef Kady Yon and mixologist Benjamin Schiller, who coincidentally is also featured in this week’s Cocktail Challenge, working a three-way with fresh seaweed. Next up is Sepia mixologist Joshua Pearson, who’s been challenged with propolis, an aromatic resin used bees as a sealant (Schiller says his mom has a few organic hives out in Batavia).
