You can describe mixologist Paul McGee in a number of different ways: cultishly beloved, iconically bearded, preternaturally talented when it comes to slinging booze. Just don’t call him a sellout.
But here’s the deal: While there’s only one Paul McGee—and while Logan Square scenesters were understandably distraught about their favorite bartender crossing over to the other side—there are plenty of hip, able drink makers who remain rooted in that neighborhood. In fact, some might say there are a few too many of them there, and that it’s time to share the artisanally bittered love.
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Round two: Saturn (a regular-strength classic created by 1967 IBA World Cocktail Champion J. “Popo” Galsini) vs. Aloha, Mexico (regular strength, modern). We opted for the Aloha because at that point in the evening we were reaching maximum fructose capacity, albeit as much from the food as from round one. It was our fault for ordering the coconut shrimp (what did we expect?), though we wrongly assumed the Thai fried chicken with garlic-chile sauce would present a much-craved dose of salt and heat (it provided neither). And the Aloha’s more palate-cleansing components—tequila, genever, pineapple, mint, tamarind, and hellfire bitters—positioned it for what I assumed would be a flavor-profile advantage over the Saturn—navy-strength gin, passion fruit, lemon, falernum, almond. Oh, but the Saturn! This classic truly wowed us. There was perfect calibration between the ingredients. These cocktails are not small, and the Saturn continued to intrigue through the last sip. It was by far the best in show.
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