Xni-Pec Restaurant
Xel-Ha
Then in January, Dudley Nieto (Chapulin, Adobo Grill) opened an upscale Yucatecan restaurant on the north side: Xel-Ha (pronounced “shell ha”). When I first visited last month it still hadn’t had its grand opening. Says Nieto, “It takes time to train our staff to make these traditional recipes.”
Best of Chicago voting is live now. Vote for your favorites »
I’ve been to both restaurants several times over the past two months, and each has seemed better each visit.
Meanwhile, on the north side, Xel-Ha is one of Chicago’s most elegant Mexican dining spaces, with linen tablecloths, a fireplace, a stylish back room, and a mammoth mahogany bar staffed by a knowledgeable bartender and stocked with premium tequilas. Chef Nieto is justly proud of his version of queso relleno, which is Edam stuffed with seasoned ground beef in white sauce. (This dish became popular after a Dutch cargo ship crashed off the coast of Mexico and the locals suddenly found themselves awash in foreign cheese.) Served with sweet raisins, olives, and saffron, it’s a characteristic fusion of Native American, European, and Middle Eastern traditions.
