As far back as the 50s, Roger Laguardia’s little restaurant and grocery in Bainoa, Cuba, was famous for its stewed oxtails. “It made him very, very popular,” says his son Jorge. “They still talk about them.” But when his father opened Bucktown’s Cafe Laguardia 13 years ago, they weren’t a big seller and appeared only infrequently as a special.
Many Chicagoans will recognize pão de queijo as the warm cheesy buns served at all-you-can-eat churrascarias such as Fogo de Chao. Crafty gluttons eschew them, knowing that the reason they’re continually replenished is to take up precious stomach space that might otherwise be filled with expensive beef. That trick doesn’t fly in many South American countries, where pão de queijo are a ubiquitous street snack that can be enjoyed under any circumstance.
We went with a special of masas de puerco, delicious deep-fried pork chunks smeared with mojo and served with rings of white onion. We also liked the crispy tostones and a savory goat-cheese empanada. A big part of the appeal of 90 Miles is the crack service—the staff is assiduous and outgoing, making jokes, pouring water, checking on the meal, backslapping, and handling large parties with aplomb. On a friend’s last visit, Alberto was going around offering wine to his guests (the restaurant is BYO); on mine it was samples of Cuban coffee that ended up luring me back for breakfast.
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118 N. Marion | 708-386-1313
1720 N. California | 773-227-6038
3125 W. Montrose | 773-866-2252
Cassava 3338 N. Clark, 773-857-3039cassavachicago.com
90 Miles Cuban Cafe 2540 W. Armitage, 773-227-282290milescubancafe.com
