My first thought was: Edzo’s Burger Shop is to burgers as Hot Doug’s is to encased meat. And in fact Eddie Lakin purposely patterned his Evanston burger hut after Doug Sohn’s renowned hot dog stand in certain respects—his cruelly limited hours, for example. But where Sohn is an innovator, Lakin’s genius is in going back to the basics. His hamburger, ground daily and unmistakably fresh, is available in two forms: a thin griddled patty or a nice, fat charburger. The former’s best in the form of a double; the latter’s irresistible cooked medium rare. It’s not all about the beef, though: a Maxwell Street-style Polish on a poppy-seed bun arrives piled with grilled onions and streaked with yellow mustard; its char is transcendent. Lakin, a chef who’s worked at the likes of Tru and Nacional 27, did go hog wild with his hand-cut fries, which are available in six flavors, from truffle to garlic-parsley to “angry,” topped with jalapeños, sriracha, giardinera, and buffalo sauce. But best of all might be the “old fries,” crispy brown remnants perfect as a complement to Lakin’s soft, decadent cheese fries (made with Merkts sharp cheddar spread). And don’t skimp when it comes to the “$5 shake”—just $4—try the chocolate-banana number or a Nutella malt, topped with whipped cream and a cherry. My only complaint is those hours: 10:30 AM to 4 PM, Tuesday through Sunday. On one of my visits a couple plaintively asked Lakin whether he’d ever be open for dinner. Maybe when his kids are in college, he said. How old are your kids? one of them asked. One and four, he replied. —Kate Schmidt
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But in most cases he orchestrates a four-way war among salty, sweet, sour, and spicy flavors, and none of them is ever the victor. Noodles and Vietnamese-style meatballs stuffed in more flatbread—is it a pho taco or a spaghetti-and-meatball sandwich? Either way, it’s one starch too many. Oil-poached shrimp on cold somen in an oversweetened citrusy dressing are piled atop crunchy tortilla chips like a mushy, tentacular ceviche. A lemongrass chicken sandwich with toasted peanut and coconut blurs the boundaries between satay and banh mi with a tart, fishy sauce—Vietnamese nuoc cham, laying waste to every other sensation preceding it.
It seems like the only time flavors aren’t rioting is when Kim makes offerings to vegetarian and gluten-free eaters, and then he goes too far the other way. The Boricua, his tribute to the Chicago-born jibarito, is two crispy (but greasy) planks of plantain sandwiching a vegan trifecta of asceticism: Chinese black beans, brown rice, and a thick slab of tofu. And the seasoning is submerged in a baby squash roasted with pho spices and stuffed with diced sweet potato.
Aja660 N. State | 312-202-6050 | $$$$
With its plywood accents on electric-green walls, flame-scorched lunch counters (seemingly attacked by blowtorches gone wild), and flat-screen TVs pumping out hip-hop, BenjYehuda vaguely resembles a set from Blade Runner. Nonetheless, the amiable counter folks serving up tasty chow from a menu that melds Israeli and Mexican street food quickly make the place feel like home. If you go with a friend, you can probably sample everything on the limited menu in one visit, though the vast range of condiments allows nearly endless variations. Add Jerusalem salad for minty freshness, baba ganoush for smoky notes, or the signature hot sauce for a capsaicin rush. Of course, any place seeking street cred must sell fine fries, and Benjyehuda’s are excellent, accompanied by a dipping cup of Merkts spreadable cheddar for over-the-top fat-on-fat deliciousness. Main events are steak, chicken shawarma and falafel. Both meats, minimally spiced, benefit from a peppery blast of salsa; the falafel is delectably crunchy, flecked with parsley, and actually tastes like chickpeas. You can order a “flight” of steak, chicken and falafel in adorable micro-pitas for $7.29, or try them singly in regulation pita, laffa (think burrito), or on romaine (for you carb counters). The cabbage and carrot salads are just fresh vegetables, sliced, minimally dressed, and delicious. Soups, which on our visit included tortilla and a somewhat leaden matzo ball, change regularly. For dessert, there’s churros and nothing else; make sure they’re fresh from the fryer. Prices drift toward the upper edge of mid-level for a lunchtime stop like this, though to paraphrase Lance in Pulp Fiction, when you try it, you’ll know where the money went.—David Hammond
ITALIAN, MEDITERRANEAN, SEAFOOD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS
Sabor Saveur2013 W. Division | 773-235-7310 | $$$
Belly Shack 1912 N. Western, 773-252-1414, bellyshack.com
LM 4539 N. Lincoln, 773-942-7585, lmrestaurant.com
