One look at the nightly specials menu at West Town’s Arami should jar anyone out of his sushi-ordering routine. Sushi chef B.K. Park, a veteran of Mirai, Meiji, and Aria, leaves the spicy-mayo-tempura-crunch frippery to everyone else, instead focusing on the fundamentals of traditional Japanese cooking: rice, fish, soy, seaweed.

Arami’s BYO days are numbered, but I’d expect an interesting beverage program from owners Troy and Ty Fujimora, who also own Small Bar and the Exchange. —Kristina Meyer

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A nice selection of tap and bottled craft beers boosted by an evangelical staff creates a pacing dilemma when combined with the menu of 11 thick hand-spun specialty shakes, including flavors like black cow, banana-Nutella, and malted milk ball. For the most part McLean’s simplest efforts here are the best.

Things are even simpler next door at Sono: lots of wine, antipasti, bruschetta, some salads, three pasta dishes, and of course, pizza, “80 percent” of it all, a server informed us, coming out of the 1,000-degree tiled wood-burning oven into a small room that has waitstaff stumbling on table legs between the tables and the bar.

1236 W. 18th | 312-733-9601

2210 N. California | 773-276-5625

3749 W. Fullerton | 773-489-3748

1829 W. Chicago, 312-243-1535

aramichicago.com

Burger Bar

1578 N. Clybourn, 312-255-0055

burgerbarchicago.com

Sono Wood Fired

1582 N. Clybourn, 312-255-1122

sonowoodfired.com