The Gage
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Across the street from Millennium Park, The Gage–a new restaurant from father-and-son co-owners William and Billy Lawless (The Grafton) and chef Dirk Flanigan (Meritage, Blue Water Grill)–draws swarms of tourists and suits alike, and the restored tin ceiling and green and white tiles only amplify the din. But if you can tolerate the noise (and the breathtaking prices), you’ll find some superb dishes. The extensive drinks list features specialty and vintage cocktails like the Champagne Charlie (champagne and Grand Marnier with a bitters-soaked sugar cube). The one-page menu has surprising breadth without seeming scattershot: there are half a dozen steaks and burgers alongside more unusual offerings like roast saddle of elk, sea bream with oxtail, and caramelized lobster with lemon quinoa. Gooey fondue with butterkase, Brie, and spinach, served piping hot in a crock with toasts on the side, is a delightful starter made for sharing; other appetizers include mussels in a vindaloo sauce, fried chicken livers, and risotto with basil-marinated escargots. Among the entrees are vegetarian options like calamarata pasta with roasted peppers and seared semolina dumplings. An expertly charred hanger steak had plenty of smoky, juicy flavor, and the accompanying goat cheese grits and cabernet-Stilton-butter were heavenly. Don’t skip the brussels sprouts with bacon and Brie, available a la carte along with several other sides. But do save room for dessert: offerings like the “deconstructed” apple pie (thin pastry served upright in a pint glass with apple ice cream on the side) and chocolate peanut butter cake make a perfect finish. –Rob Christopher
Amphora
58 E. Ontario
1240 W. Randolph | 312-666-9555
10468 S. Indianapolis | 773-374-6089
For more on restaurants, see our blog The Food Chain at chicagoreader.com.
