Who You Calling Polak Polak Eatery

• Mike Sula
• Pierogi with the works, Polak Eatery

One way to call attention to your small neighborhood restaurant is to give it a name that could be perceived as an ethnic slur. It’s even better if you’re a member of said ethnicity, and can cover yourself with the old, “It’s ok. I’m _______. I can say that.” Polish-born Damian Warzecha more or less presented that to DNAinfo when he opened Polak Eatery in Humboldt Park, serving, so far, a small menu of pierogi, eggs, and sausage for breakfast and lunch. “Polak” is something Poles call each other all the time, he explained. (“Occasionally,” my Polish sources say.)

The dough on these pierogi is a bit tough and stretchy, and they make for some sloppy eating, particularly if you opt for the works—and I recommend you do—when it comes to toppings. Peppery grilled onions, sauerkraut, sour cream, and bacon make a splendid mess.

• Mike Sula
• Sweet cheese pierogi, Polak Eatery